Italian vs. American vs. English Men’s Dress Shoes & What Distinguishes Them – Gentleman’s Gazette

Italian vs. American vs. English Men’s Dress Shoes & What Distinguishes Them – Gentleman’s Gazette

welcome back to the gentleman’s Gazette in today’s video we discuss what makes Italian shoes different from what say English or American shoes when you educate yourself about shoes you’ll encounter Italian shoes English shoes American shoes Spanish Portuguese Japanese but no one really explains what that means in today’s

video I’ll try to go over the different style hallmarks as well as the construction of Italian American English shoes of course those are just guidelines and you can always find exceptions to the rule first of all what’s the hallmark of Italian shoes Italy has a long-standing tradition in

craftsmanship and specifically in leather goods because of that you can find lots of shoemakers still in Italy as well as many shoe factories now John bespoke or custom shoes are very different from Italian factory made shoes so let’s take a look at bespoke first even in Europe Italy

has probably the highest density of bespoke shoemakers you can find it’s the same with tailors shirt makers other crafts especially related to menswear one thing it always struck me about italian bespoke shoes is that even a shoemaker in a small town has a very good eye for an

elegant last if you go to a smaller town in Germany and everybody spoke shoe made it will fit very well the quality in construction will be very good but the style will always look a little old-fashioned not so in Italy the construction you find in Italian we spoke

shoes is usually a hand-sewn Goodhue belt and you can learn more about what good your wealth means in this video here sometimes you can also find the Norwegian welt which is called Toro big is a Italian and it’s more visible it’s more time consuming and not many other

shoemakers are so much in love with that welt as Italians are the probably spoke is it’s very expensive it’s very time consuming and because of that it’s not an option for most men out there especially ones outside of Italy now factory-made italian shoes have been quite popular in

the US and just think of brands such as Santoni or Todd’s and they’ve been around for a while they have a good reputation at the same time they’re also quite pricey with the advancement of the Internet we’ve seen a lot more smaller companies in recent years producing goods

that they sell directly to consumers cutting out the middleman and saving you as a consumer on the purchase price one of those companies who did it very successfully is called East marks they’re based in the US but I exclusively produced shoes in Italy and sell them directly to

their consumers either by their website or by a Kickstarter projects in fact they’re the two most popular Kickstarter campaigns ever raising over a million dollars for this video a Smurfs collaborate with us and you can find most of the Italian made factory shoes in their shop so our

ace marks the best Italian shoes money can buy absolutely not however that’s not their focus they try to sell a shoe that is fairly priced with a very high quality level and an extremely great value level at a lower price so let’s have a closer look at Italian

made factory shoes such as ace marks first it’s all about the leather Italians are very good tanners and because of that most Italian shoes are made of Italian leather unlike in other countries you can find entire towns dedicated to leather tanning and it’s just a joy to see

that that craft is still so very much alive in Italy today so when you look at quality Italian shoes they will likely have a hand burnished patina with either something darker areas and lighter areas which makes the shoe more lively easier to combine and it simply looks much

better than a plain colored leather shoe second let’s talk about construction most quality Italian shoes are either Blake stitched or Blake rabbit stitched you can see here these diagrams how that stitch is different one has two stitches one has just one overall Blake rapid is superior to just

Blake and very similar to good here in the sense that it’s more complex but with Blake sometimes you also have the issue that the thread will transport water from the wet street direct the inside of your shoe which can be quite uncomfortable in terms of costs they’re all

very similar to each other including the machine made Goodyear welt in terms of quality many would read good your weld on top of the bunch however that’s not necessarily true a good deal of the tube just has different characteristics than let’s say a blake rated shoe in general

a Blake Rebbetzin shoe will have a much thinner so that is also more flexible than a Goodyear welted shoe which is generally a thicker and harder now some people if they have issues with their feet just don’t get along with Goodyear well shoes simply because they’re too hard

on their feet personally I own hand welded good your shoes machine-made good your shoes as well as Blake and Blake rapid shoes the difference is really not that big with the Goodyear weld you get a little bit of cork on the inside which you usually don’t get with

Blake Rabbit or Blake Construction ultimately what matters more is the design of the last and how it works with your foot when it comes to heel height Italian shoes have been all over the place in the 70s you saw really really tall heels but today you can mostly

find a moderate heel which is perfectly suitable for every kind of man overall I would say that Italian shoes are always a little more fashion-forward they have lasted or longer maybe a little rounded maybe a little more extreme they’re usually very stylish and always been emphasis on elegance

sort of English factory made shoes in my experience they’re generally a little stiffer which means the uppers are a little stiffer the sole is a little stiffer and that’s because they use the Goodyear well method machine well that almost exclusively in every factory I’ve ever seen now the

leather is not super hard it’s just a little harder than Italian shoes typically also found that all my English ready-to-wear shoes are much heavier than my Italian ones interestingly bespoke shoes from England are generally much lighter than the English factory made shoes the last you can generally find

in England are a little more traditional and in Italian ones very timeless and classic only now they’re a little less flashy and less elongated as Italian lasts the English also produces different kinds of shoes such as boots with trip or double soles and a rougher brewing that’s ideal

for country where for example now what about American shoes such as Allen Edmonds or all it’s just like English shoes they’re machine gujia welted and their lasts or generally a little more old-fashioned some people may call it clunky but overall it’s just a different type of last overall

I say American shoes are more similar to English used and Italian shoes but obviously that’s a generalization you can always find exceptions to the rule for example I have this chisel to bel-air last from Allen Edmonds as a spectator and it really doesn’t look like their typical Park

Avenue shoot so what type of shoe is better honestly there is no right or wrong personally I own Italian shoes I own German shoes Austin shoes Romanian shoes and everything in between now all of them have placed my wardrobe and for certain outfits I prefer Italian for is

American and then again English or others for example for stylish double monk I prefer Italian silhouette because it’s a different last it’s elegant its unique and it’s not clunky if you want to go for a traditional classic cap toe Oxford the English word maybe with my first choice

at the same time the Italians have also figured out to do it quite well just look at this black half brogue with a medallion a very nice business shoot in my opinion that being said when it comes to heavy leather boots I go with English shoes no doubt

about that I’m very happy with my American Spectator shoes from Allen Edmonds however if you want a cordovan shoe Alden is probably the most prestigious brand for that now when it comes to loafers a big fan of Italian shoes usually they’re very elegant last they stay in a

foot they don’t slip out and very happy with TAS loafers as well as penny loafers just look very different than American penny loafers or English penny loafers usually the longer last is a little more flattering in my opinion but again each to his own and then are they

you have to figure out what works for you if you’re a really heavy guy with 400 pounds a thin sold Italian leather shoe is maybe not your best bet at the same time if you want an elegant shoe that is thinner sold for evening events with black tie

for example as a whole cut or maybe just as a business shoe around the office I would totally recommend to go with Italian thin sole shoes rather than thicker and garyun style or American shoes in today’s video wearing a two-piece brown suit without vents and wide peak lapels

it’s a vintage suit from a corrosion in real and it wasn’t tailored for me but nevertheless I like it a lot I’m pairing it with a soft colored light blue and white checked shirt as well as a bold white strap tie in red yellow and blue my pockets

where it picks up those tones and ties them all together it is made of English Matter silk from Fort Belvedere and you can find it in our shop just like the shadows try the brown and blue socks that pick up the blue in my shirt as well as

the brown tones in my outfit to add some contrast to my outfit without being too bold I opted for a hand burnished antiqued patina monk strap shoe from ace marks it has a medallion and a cap toe and a buckle sits further up on the foot and let’s

say on English shoes yet it’s a different look and I like it quite a bit especially with a brown suit it’s not flashy but very harmonious and it works with the entire outfit [Giay Nam Dep]

Facebook Comments
0/5 (0 Reviews)

Share this post